9/1/2023 0 Comments Quiver killer ski insertsThe threads on these ski heli-coils are deeper, sharper and coarser than QKs or BF inserts. And while you're at it, might as well use something purpose-built for skis, like QK's (or at least something that is stainless steel and sealed at the bottom).Heli-coils for skis don't have a round profile, they have coarse sharp threads. In other words.*inserts*! Intuitively, it seems like the round profile of the helicoil threads would not have enough bite/purchase vs the wood fibers (epoxy would help, but still: why compromise?).ĭon't use helicoils for skis - wrong tool for the job IMO. Most mfrs offering helicoil-like devices also have some variant for wood, but they are not coils, they are a solid piece of metal, with wood-screw-like threads on the outside, and machine screw threads on the inside. Helicoils are meant for use in metal, not wood. IMO, if they are both installed well, a helicoill or an insert probably hold exactly the same amount because the wood ski core will break first before either the insert or the helicoil fail, so my preference is more down to the asthetics i listed above and the remounting convenience of the inserts. A timecert is basically a threaded insert.ĭo a google search (like I usually do) and ask "helicoil or timecert?" You'll probably find out what actual machinsts who make these kind of repairs think about them both and get a real expert's opinion (instead of mine) In mechanical repairs, helicoils are considered less solid than say, a timecert. (yes, so that means screw length can be more critical with helicoils)ĭo you epoxy a helicoil in place when you install it? how do you keep the epoxy off the inner threads if it's just a wire twisted into a thread form? If you get 4 turns on the screw going into a helicoil, then you get 4 turns of worth of contact area of the outside of helicoil gripping the core of the ski because the helicoil itself is just a thin wire that has no structural integrity of it's own to transfer holding power to it's outer threads unless the screw is in contact with the inner screw on each thread. Helicoils could probably work ok too for a one time installation, They are slightly different. Inserts allow me to remove and remount easily which allows me to add or subtract the brakes when I want or swap out a binding easily if one breaks Inserts have a better thread tolerance, so the threads should last longer when mounting and removing bindings Inserts have a solid metal casing so and force applied to the inner threads is distributed across the entire surface of the outer threads Inserts are sealed, so once I install them the ski core is sealed off from the elements so I can have multiple binding mount possibilities on a single ski. I've used both quite a bit actually, but for skis I like the inserts better. Apparently they will be strong enough if you have at least four layers of the thread in use.I think both helicoils and inserts could be improved, but I like inserts for a few reasons. If not you can file down the top of the insert and the bottom of the screws for these inserts to make them shorter. The rearmost ones tend to the hardest to get right as some skis get a bit thin there and you need to take care that there is enough depth for the insert. If it is a bit proud of it you can however just file or grind it down (although this usually scratches the surrounding top sheet). It took me a while to figure out how to get the insert the right distance just below the surface of the top sheet. If you have some junk skis you can practice on that might be better than using apiece of wood. Buy more inserts than you will need as you will waste some on practice etc. Only a bit more than the basic ones they also sell but easier to use. If you are buying the materials directly from Quiver Killer it’s worth buying the better tools etc they offer on their store. As others have mentioned using a drill press helps a lot. I’ve found quiver killers to work very well. Dont over-tighten the tap on the way inīonus points if you wanna mount two or more binding patterns.when you're measuring millimeters and resolving hole conflicts, you know the obsession has gone too far Use a drill press and stepped drill bitsĥ. Paper templates go on.measure incessantlyĤ. If not, establish ski center with templates (Slide Wright has a good one)ģ. Here's a link to an old blog I used to do.Pretty sure the info is still good:Ģ. The only cons are the longer process and gear required - in return, you get a stronger mount (epoxy and steel vs wood glue), the benefits of traveling with more skis/swapping bindings, and the ability to buy more skis.Īdditionally, lots of folks haven't tried them, and so dis them out of ignorance. Most of those ski techs would probably say that because they are terrified of messing up the mounting process.
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